Michaelmas Goose

There is an old saying in Ireland that if you eat goose on Michaelmas Day (September 29) you will never want for money all year round. At that time of the year Irish geese weigh about 10 pounds each and are very tender. The traditional stuffing for this dish is potato, which cuts the grease and absorbs the rich flavor of the bird.

To serve 6

10 lb. goose with the liver reserved, and the goose neck, gizzard and heart cooked in salted water for 20 minutes, strained and the stock reserved

4 to 5 tbsp. oil

Stuffing
3 to 4 medium-sized potatoes boiled, peeled and cut into chunks
1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped
4 oz. lean salt pork, blanched in boiling water for 5 minutes, drained and finely diced
salt and pepper
reserved goose liver, chopped
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. finely chopped sage

Onion sauce
4 onions, sliced
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup water
1 turnip, sliced
2 tbsp. butter
grated nutmeg
salt and pepper
cream (optional)

Applesauce
2 cooking apples, peeled and cored
1/2 cup water
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. sugar
grated nutmeg
salt

Mix all the stuffing ingredients together and season very highly, then put the stuffing into the breast cavity of the bird and secure the vent. Place the bird in a roasting pan with a scant cup of the goose-giblet stock. Cover the bird with foil and roast in a hot oven preheated to 400 degrees for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 350 degrees and cook for 20 minutes to the pound. Baste at least twice during the cooking and add another scant cup of stock if the pan is running dry. Remove the foil for the last 15 minutes to allow the skin to crisp up.

In the 18th and 19th Centuries, onion sauce was always served with goose. The onions were cooked in half milk and half water with a slice of turnip. When soft the onions were mashed, mixed with a knob of butter, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, and beaten until smooth-sometimes finished with a little cream.

Nowadays applesauce is a more usual accompaniment to the goose. To prepare the applesauce, cook the peeled and cored apples in water until tender. Sieve or mash them and add the butter, sugar and a pinch each of nutmeg and salt. Reheat the sauce and serve hot.

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Old-fashioned Braised Goose

The marc called for in the following recipe is a pungent brandy distilled from the grape skins and seeds after wine is made.

To serve 6

7 to 9 lb. goose
4 tbsp. Butter
8 medium-sized onions, finely chopped
20 shallots, finely chopped
10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 quart dry white wine
6 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
Bouquet garni
salt and pepper
1/2 cup marc

Brown the goose lightly in butter in a large fireproof casserole. Add the onions, shallots and garlic, and fry for a few minutes more until they are soft but not browned.

Pour in the wine and add the tomatoes and bouquet garni. Salt and pepper lightly, cover the casserole, and braise in a low oven at 250 degrees for about 5 hours or until the goose flesh separates from the bones. Remove and bone the goose, discarding the bones. Keep the meat warm in a covered dish.

Reduce the liquid in the casserole to a syrupy consistency, and add the marc. Remove the bouquet garni, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning. Pour the sauce over the goose. Serve very hot.

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Roast Goose
To serve 6 to 8

7 to 9 lb. goose, cut into 8 pieces, with the giblets reserved
salt
1 cup pearl barley, washed and drained
2 or 3 onions, cut into pieces
2 or 3 carrots, cut into pieces
2 or 3 leeks, cut into pieces
bouquet garni
4 quarts salted water

Put the barley, vegetables, bouquet garni and the giblets in the salted water, and simmer for at least 4 hours. In the meantime, salt the goose pieces and let them stand at room temperature for 30 minutes; then wash them in cold running water. Place the goose pieces in the barley broth and cook at a simmer until the flesh is tender. The time required will vary with the type of goose and its age: young geese are tender after an hour; older birds may need 2 hours or more.

When you judge that the goose is ready to eat, remove it from the pot. Drain the pieces and place them on a heatproof dish. Baste them with goose fat skimmed from the broth and place them in a very hot oven, preheated to 450 degrees, until they are brown. Serve without any garnish.

The same treatment is suitable for stewing chicken, turkey or duck and the dish is as good cold as hot.

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Poached Goose with Garlic Cream Sauce
To serve 6 to 8

10 lb. goose
1 bouquet garni
2 large onions
4 carrots
1 whole bulb of garlic, unpeeled and In 1 piece
peppercorns
1 tbsp. butter

Sauce
15 garlic cloves, peeled
1 quart milk
5 egg yolks
3/4 cup heavy cream

Place the goose in a cooking pot containing salted water.

Bring to a boil, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Add the bouquet garni, onions, carrots, the whole garlic bulb and a few peppercorns. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 2 hours or until the goose is tender. Remove the goose, cut it into serving pieces, pat the pieces dry and brown them lightly in a skillet with the butter.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by first simmering the garlic cloves in the milk for about 15 minutes. Add the egg yolks mixed with the cream to bind the sauce.

Arrange the goose pieces on a platter. Pour on the butter from the skillet, then add the sauce, garlic and all.